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This underrated UK town could be the restorative break you need

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Breathtaking landscapes, rolling valleys and an abundance of natural wonders: Neath Port Talbot is an unspoiled region of south Wales that might just be the perfect escape from city life – L360 assistant editor Katie Sipp-Hurley investigates.

As urban dwellers increasingly seek refuge from the relentless pace of city life, we’re constantly searching for serene new locations to connect with nature and rejuvenate the mind. Margate has become too overcrowded, Cornwall is just too far away for most, so where do we go to next?

Renowned for its rolling valleys and rugged landscapes, Wales is often considered a haven for adventure-seekers and outdoor sport enthusiasts. Rather than the popular hiking spots of Snowdonia, I was curious to discover that a small and lesser-known region of south Wales is a newly sought after destination for a wellness break.

Neath Port Talbot, dubbed ‘the dramatic heart of Wales’, owes its name to the significant role it played in the Industrial Revolution, but it’s the region’s striking landscapes and stunning waterfalls that truly embody this drama. The natural beauty of this area provides the perfect backdrop for a range of outdoor activities, from cycling and hiking to kayaking and cold-water swimming. While it hasn’t yet been recognised as a wellness hotspot, the landscape alone convinced me of its potential for a restorative escape.

The combination of fresh air and the profound friendliness of the locals was a disarming surprise. I had the distinct feeling that the region wasn’t accustomed to many visitors from further afield.

Since Uber was only introduced here three weeks prior to my visit, a mere two months after the nearest large city (Swansea), available rides are scarce and unreliable. So it’s best to travel by car if you can – plus, all the worthwhile activities are a drive away.

Camping pod at Willow Springs
Get back to basics in a camping pod at Willow Springs. Image: Martin Ellard

 

Where to stay in Neath Port Talbot

To those of us not entirely at home in the great outdoors, camping might seem counterintuitive for a wellness break, but glamping in the Welsh valleys is an exception worth making. Surrounded by the formidable, endless green of the Afan Forest Park, the small glamping pods at Willow Springs campsite offer a cosy retreat that ensures you make the most of the wilderness. The pods come with a bed, bed linen, a duvet, a patio, a bistro table and chairs. Many pods also feature wood-burners – a charming invitation to get back to basics and take charge of your own holiday. The park offers various walking, cycling and running routes, as well as horse-riding, coarse fishing and a visit to a 19th-century Tudor-Gothic-style mansion surrounded by beautiful gardens, lakes and wildlife. Despite the challenge of bringing and cooking your own food, the seclusion is a refreshing escape for anyone seeking a break from city life.

For a shocking but welcome jolt to the system, consider a dip in the freezing waters of the Welsh lakes. Another nearby glamping site, Spring Valley Lakes offers a host of on-site activities including stand-up paddleboarding (SUP), canoeing, cold-water swimming and even scuba diving. The site has plenty of glamping pods and hot tubs available for hire, as well as a licensed bar where you can unwind with a drink and a view of the valleys after a day of watersports.

If you’re after a spa stay in the area, the Towers Hotel & Spa offers a comfortable base with basic amenities, including a gym, infinity pool and a spa providing a range of treatments from manicures and pedicures to facials and massages. The rooms are spacious and clean, but modest – and I wouldn’t recommend the restaurant to serious foodies. However, the staff are friendly and always on hand to recommend activities, assist with travel or simply have a chat.

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Heated indoor pool at Towers Hotel and Spa
Heated indoor pool at Towers Hotel and Spa. Image: Martin Ellard

Visit the Willow Springs sauna and waterfall plunge pool

The outdoor sauna and plunge pool at Willow Springs campsite is a fantastic way to immerse yourself in Neath’s natural environment. Accessible only by car or taxi through a remote village in the middle of a valley, this experience is about 40 minutes’ drive from any big towns or cities. Clamber into a quaint wooden cabin and embark on a truly unique wellness experience, but be warned – it’s a DIY affair where guests are responsible for operating the wood-fired sauna themselves.

Usually, I’m hesitant to do anything that results in uncontrollable sweating, but the serene atmosphere of the sauna, accompanied by the sound of water cascading down at the nearby waterfall made it worthwhile. To fully benefit from the experience, alternate between the hot sauna and cold spring, replicating the effects of centuries-old Finnish hot and cold water therapy.

Visiting late in the evening, under twinkling fairy lights with a yellowing sunset over the valley, I found this to be easily the most memorable experience of the trip. However, beware of gnats – as we were warned by a friendly local lady who invited us in for tea as we descended the valley.

Read more: These are the best short-haul holidays for a quick fix of sunshine
outdoor wellness sauna
Sweat out the toxins in Willow Spring’s woodfired sauna before a dip in the plunge pool

Try yoga on the beach and forest trails in Margam Country Park

Another unexpected highlight of the trip was yoga with Emma Tamplin on Aberavon Seafront. Despite the flat, rather gloomy weather, I felt genuine childlike wonder at the novelty of doing yoga on a beach. Supplemented by gusts of strong wind and cries of delight from children playing in the sand, Emma led us through a gentle yoga session that focused on calm and restoration. The session ended with a guided meditation and affirmations about self-belief and gratitude. This would usually err on the side of cheesy for me, but something about the fresh air, sea breeze and joyful atmosphere made it the perfect novice yoga practice.

Continuing the pursuit of wellness through immersion in nature, Margam Country Park is an 850-acre historic park with a Gothic castle, gardens, deer and wildlife, offering ample greenery to explore. The vast space and lakes and ponds offers a range of activities from canoeing and kayaking to stand-up paddleboarding (SUP) and raft building. From the visitor centre you can rent e-bikes, tandem bikes, mountain bikes and a range of different types of go-karts if you’re feeling brave. During our e-bike adventure we encountered llamas, baby goats and donkeys, before catching a short ride on a charming miniature train driven by a man proudly wearing a deerstalker hat. Although I managed to fall off my bike – unused to the speed – it was a peaceful afternoon and a reminder of the power of exploring wide-open spaces and forest trails.

Read more: Retreat to Lisbon: how to spend a weekend in the city, with wellness woven in
People paddleboard in Margam Country park.
SUP at Margam Country park. Image: Martin Ellard

What to eat in Neath Port Talbot

Neath Port Talbot is not quite a foodie’s paradise – it’s best approached as a wellness or activity break rather than a culinary adventure. However, we did find a standout spot in Franco’s Café on Aberavon seafront. With its friendly atmosphere and retro vibes, it’s the perfect place for classic fish and chips; you can also grab your food to go with a hot chocolate and enjoy a picturesque stroll down the beach.

If you’re looking to dine out and want a reliable option, Bella Ciao in Port Talbot offers a safe bet with Italian favourites. For a hearty meal after a day of exploring, The Brit Pub in Cwmavon serves up gastropub favourites in an ornately decorated interior, catering to all dietary needs.

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