On Crete’s northeastern coast, L360’s Katie Sipp-Hurley discovers where nutritionist-led dining, sea-view thalassotherapy pools and private tennis lessons are the norm.
Roughly halfway up the western edge of Crete’s Elounda peninsula, an old carob tree sprawls outwards from beneath the cover of a taverna. Dangling lanterns, a breeze carrying ocean air mingled with grilled fish and the rumblings of a traditional Greek kitchen — Old Mill fine dining restaurant feels like stepping back in time to a sleepy mountain village. In reality, I’m on the island’s most luxurious corner, Elounda, in search of a restorative Cretan wellness escape.
After the richest and freshest pasta I’ve ever had, overflowing with generous portions of grilled octopus and lobster, the Elounda Collection’s sommelier, Babis Papadatos, appears from underneath the tavern’s beams with an expectant glint in his eye. “Digestif?” he suggests. I take a shot of Mastiha, a crystal-clear Cretan spirit that sets my throat on fire and makes my eyes water. Across the restaurant, a pianist scores the evening’s close with an impressive rendition of John Denver’s Take Me Home, Country Roads (after an evening of traditional Cretan numbers). Occasionally, a carob leaf flutters down onto the table — or onto my head — but this is all part of the Elounda experience.
Where to stay in Elounda
One of Greece’s most‑loved islands, Crete’s tapestry of mountain villages, golden beaches, ancient sites and the lively capital of Heraklion have long made it a magnet for travellers, from honeymooners to backpackers. But those looking for a quieter kind of luxury often take the path 41 miles east from Heraklion, to Elounda.
Once a postcard‑pretty fishing village sustained by farming, salt from the old Venetian pans and emery mining, Elounda’s peninsula and surrounding area has evolved. Though it still feels small in parts, locals now regard it as the island’s most exclusive enclave, home to a throng of luxury resorts and wellness getaways. The Elounda Collection, a trio of hillside resorts stretching across the peninsula and dipping into the Aegean, seems to have the monopoly.
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At Elounda Peninsula, where I’m staying (though the three resorts are so close it feels like one sprawling haven of luxury amenities), the reception balcony frames sweeping views over the gulf and out to sea. Then interiors are adorned with deep wood, brass fittings and natural light, plus a spiral staircase that lends the air of a superyacht. My suite, like most here, has a living room, outdoor dining area, private pool and a view of the peninsula. Some of the newer villas now have fitness suites and rooms connected by enormous bathtubs — it’s no wonder the hotel once charmed guests like Charlize Theron into extending their stay.
Wandering between the three hotels, I worried I might miss ‘authentic’ Crete amid the polished resorts. But I needn’t have feared. Mary, one of the longest‑serving staff members — and something of an in-house icon (her framed photo sits on every suite’s mantle) — is ubiquitous here, always on-hand with tips on how to tap into authentic island life, such as where to find the most Cretan food and the best sunbathing spot on the peninsula.
Plus, reminders of Cretan culture are everywhere: bougainvillea climbing the villa walls, two onsite chapels — Agia Marina and Prophet Ilias Church — named after the hotelier’s children and, at Elounda Mare, a bartender who’s been perfecting his craft there for four decades. It’s these familiar names and faces that anchor the atmosphere to something closer to a village than a glossy hotel complex.
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Where to eat in Elounda — approved by nutritionist Emily English
By late morning the next day, after a heavy, food-induced sleep, I’m ready to explore the rest of Elounda’s food. At the Elounda Collection hotels options are as varied as they are indulgent — often delivered by star waiter Dimitris Kokkinos, who somehow serves me at every restaurant I visit. Luckily, they’re all within walking, buggy or boat distance from any suite.
For quintessential Greek lunch, Mary recommends Yacht Club restaurant. After arriving via a short, private catamaran trip from Elounda Peninsula, she’s already there waiting for me. Mary greets me with a hug — a warm gesture that continues throughout my stay. A seafood lunch follows: massive king prawns, freshly caught local fish, octopus, Greek salad and of course, Cretan wine (my favourite was an aromatic and fruity white), paired by Babis himself.
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On days that call for something lighter, I find Elies, the poolside lounge straddling Elounda Peninsula and Porto Elounda, is ideal. Nutritionist and food writer Emily English (@emthenutritionist) has curated a menu (a pop-up for 2025) that puts a healthy but satiating spin on fresh, Cretan flavours. Dishes like superfood nachos, grilled fish tacos with harissa yoghurt and dips such as butterbean hummus and spicy feta spread cater easily to vegetarian, vegan and health-conscious preferences, with plenty of options for children.
But it’s the wellness bowls that steal the show: a classic Greek bowl, a protein power bowl and the glow bowl — all perfect for a light, energising lunch between sunbathing sessions, spa treatments or tennis lessons, without causing the need for an afternoon nap.
What to do in Elounda, Crete
Once fuelled, the collection’s myriad facilities make it easy to stay active, such as windsurfing, kayaking, diving, speedboat tours and unlimited use of the fitness suite and its Technogym equipment.
Back at Elounda Peninsula, two tennis courts, a padel court and a pickleball court are flanked ceremoniously by mountain slopes on one side and views of the peninsula on the other. And, if you’re interested in lessons, a Lux Tennis professional coach is available for both private and group sessions.
My coach, Fermin Gurpegui, did his level best to improve my many disorderly attempts at a serve — and with his guidance, by the end of the session, I even manage to land a few.
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How to embrace wellness in Crete
After tennis and padel, a short buggy ride takes me to the Six Senses Spa at Porto Elounda. I enter its doors to an incredible view — strips of sunshine beam through the floor-to-ceiling windows spanning the length of the room, framing an infinity thalassotherapy pool that stretches from inside the spa to open air. Overlooking the entire peninsula, a steady glide through its 30-degree seawater is the perfect preparation — or aftercare — for treatments.
After a relaxing sound-bath massage with hot towels and pinpoint pressure work, I emerge in a blissful haze to sip herbal tea and nibble almonds in the foyer, before drifting back down to enjoy the sauna and thermal suite. With a Roman steam bath, caldarium, saunarium and Finnish sauna, there’s barely enough hours in the day to experience it all — but I certainly try.
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What are the best beaches in Elounda?
After such treatments, there’s little else one can do but recline on one of the three private beaches. Hidden away in the peninsula, all Elounda Collection hotels are designed to protect guests from northern winds, so days on any one of the sandy, Blue Flag-awarded beaches are usually calm.
When I felt like being closer to the bar, Elounda Peninsula’s seafront pool with submerged sunloungers and hydro-massage jets was a Bond-esque alternative, while Elounda Mare, separated by an olive grove, has a classic outdoor pool, spa pool and a kids’ pool with waterslides. You can even arrive by boat if you fancy a cinematic entrance.
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Other things to do in Elounda
Though it’s tempting to stay cocooned within the resorts, I decide to venture out to explore the local history. A half hour drive or taxi inland takes me to the Monastery of Aretiou, a 16th century Orthodox monastery in the Neapoli region set amid rows of olive groves. I pause here for a stroll through its quiet stone courtyard and fragrant herb garden before catching a glimpse of monastic life through the centuries in the small museum.
On the way back, I stop at the Church of Panagia Kera (Assumption of Mary), near Kritsa. From the outside its vaulted roof and stone dome appear modest, but inside, its walls are covered in some of the finest-preserved Byzantine era frescoes on the island, dating back to 13th and 14th centuries.
And no trip to northeastern Crete is complete without visiting Spinalonga island. Once a Venetian fortress, later a refuge for Muslim families and then a leper colony, the island is now one of Greece’s most visited heritage sites. Boats depart directly from Elounda’s harbour or the nearby village of Plaka, where the crossing only takes minutes. Canvasing the island’s perimeter — the sea on one side, crumbling stone ruins on the other, pondering which seafood dish or spa treatment to try next — it’s hard not to confuse Crete with some sort of earthly Elysium.
Feature image: Six Senses Spa, Elounda Collection
