As Champneys marks its 100th anniversary, Living360’s Evelyn Richards checked in for a restorative break of sauna soaks, healthy food and countryside calm — all within easy reach of the capital.
There’s something gently surreal about travelling from the bustling streets of London to a grand Georgian manor house in just under an hour. It felt as though I’d stepped into an episode of Downton Abbey. At Champneys spa resort in Tring, dressing gowns are practically uniform, and it’s perfectly acceptable to eat lunch in slippers.
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What is Champneys really like?
Set in 170 acres of beautifully landscaped Hertfordshire countryside, Champneys Tring celebrates its 100th anniversary in 2025 and remains the flagship of the Champneys spa collection. Founded in 1925 as a health retreat, it’s evolved into a kind of wellness mothership, blending old-world elegance with everything from steam rooms and swimming pools to cryotherapy, microneedling and acupuncture.
The property itself is striking. Manicured lawns stretch in every direction, punctuated by fountains, evergreen trees and winding footpaths leading into the nearby woodland. It’s not just scenery for scenery’s sake — there are clearly marked walking routes around the estate, making it easy to get your steps in without ever leaving the grounds.
For those who do want to venture out, the nearby Ashridge Estate offers rolling chalk downlands, ancient beech trees and some of the prettiest countryside in the Chilterns.
I arrived on a Saturday afternoon and quickly settled into my room — a calm, comfortable space overlooking the gardens with plush bedding, a balcony with sun loungers that beckoned a nap and a bathroom stocked with enough Elemis products to launch a mini spa of my own (I used them all).
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What’s Champneys spa like?
Although I didn’t book a treatment, Champneys offers a frankly impressive range: from Swedish massages and Elemis facials to more clinical options like laser hair removal, IV vitamin therapy and even consultations with a private GP. If you’re in search of the ‘total reset’ experience, this place has it covered — though a robe, a good book and a float in the hydrotherapy pool might be just as effective.
Speaking of which: the spa facilities are extensive. There’s a 25-metre swimming pool housed in a bright, glass-roofed atrium; a heated hydro pool for floating or gentle jet massages; saunas, steam rooms, whirlpools, infrared booths, a laconium, a cold plunge and an outdoor hot tub (ideal for a post-dinner soak beneath the stars). There’s also a full fitness centre, Peloton-equipped cycle studio and more than 20 classes offered daily — from Pilates to padel tennis.
While the facilities do get busy in the middle of the day, packed shoulder-to-shoulder with visiting day guests, it’s easy enough to find quieter moments. I found early mornings and after 6pm most peaceful, as the day visitors weren’t around — ideal for enjoying a near-private swim or sauna session.
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What is the food like at Champneys?
As a vegetarian, I’m always sceptical about dining options. Too often, I’ve been burnt by limited menu options, often lacking in taste and imagination, making me feel like an afterthought.
However, the food at Champneys exceeded expectations. The brand has long championed nutritious dining, but not at the cost of flavour. For dinner, I ordered a halloumi caesar salad that was satisfyingly crisp and salty, paired with fresh leaves and a deliciously creamy dressing (usually, ceasar salad isn’t an option for me as it has anchovies in the sauce). My fiancé had a vegan burger topped with zingy wasabi mayo, and declared it “shockingly good”.
The menus cater thoughtfully to vegetarians, vegans and anyone avoiding gluten or dairy — though there’s still the option of a pudding and a glass of wine, if your idea of wellness includes a little indulgence. The vegan poached pear with ginger cream and walnut crunch is not to be missed.
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The Champneys way of life
Afternoons drift by easily. One moment you’re sitting in the drawing room with a herbal tea, the next you’re padding back to your room in your Champneys flip flops for a nap, followed by a quiet walk through the woodland paths that frame the estate. There’s no sense of rush, only a kind of soft permission to do nothing, to rest, to reset.
I met a young couple who told me they come to Champneys three times a year, this time happened to be in celebration of their one-year wedding anniversary. “It’s our chance to refocus,” they said, “and be completely off-duty from the kids. It resets everything.” As someone visiting for the first time, that level of loyalty made perfect sense by the end of the weekend.
So, is Champneys worth it?
Yes, if you’re looking for a weekend getaway, I’d say Champneys is a very solid option. Even without booking treatments, I found the facilities included in my stay were more than enough to reset and unwind — so you don’t need to splash the cash to feel pampered.
What makes Champneys Tring particularly appealing, beyond the impressive amenities and reliable calm, is how effortlessly it fits into a weekend. You can leave London after work and enjoy a session in a bubbling hot tub before dinner. And when the biggest decisions you face all weekend are ‘sauna or steam room?’ or ‘nap before lunch or after?’, you start to understand what a real break feels like.
As it enters its second century, Champneys doesn’t feel like it’s trying to reinvent the wheel. Instead, it quietly reminds you of what proper rest can look like. For those of us who forget to stop, to breathe, to soften around the edges — it’s a very welcome nudge.
Champneys Tring offers day passes from £195 per person and overnight stays from £390. For more information or to book, visit Champneys.
Feature image: Champneys
