From top-quality restaurants to my favourite cafes, here’s how an Oxford enthusiast would plan a winter weekend in the cathedral city.
Cobbled backstreets, quaint warming cafes and a university hall that echoes with the footsteps of academics past and present, Oxford has long been frequented by scholars and literary luminaries.
But the City of Dreaming Spires is home to much more than its world-famous collegiate history; in fact, it’s filled to the brim with independent eateries, museums and candle-lit choirs — ideal for a cosy, wintery weekend away.
As a frequent visitor, I thought I’d put together a guide to the best things to see and do in the city, as well as my favourite place to stay whenever I stop by. For further UK break inspiration, see our guides to the Cotswolds, Canterbury and South Wales.
Where to stay in Oxford
I suppose this is a bit of a cop-out, as my favourite hotel is neither a hotel nor in Oxford, but it’s nonetheless my go-to recommendation. Mollie’s Motel & Diner is located just off the A420 in Buckland, sitting idly by the motorway in that classic American motel style. It’s impossible to miss thanks to the huge fluorescent sign and sugary scent of waffles and cinnamon that float out of the diner and straight into your car.
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The drive takes just over two hours from London, and every time I park up outside Mollie’s, I make an ungracious dash for the diner doors, desperate to sample its delightful US cuisine before I’ve checked into the motel, which is just across the car park.
Simple yet classy, Mollie’s boasts unique, contemporary rooms that evoke a similar theme to that of Soho House, which makes sense because the motel’s interior was designed by the famous members’ club. Chic and sophisticated, the wood panelled walls and plush furnishings are a world away from what I image the motorway-adjacent options in America are like. Whenever I recommend Mollie’s, I can’t stop myself from mentioning the hot taps in the hallway that allow you to top up your tea or make a morning brew without having to fumble with a kettle in your room.
Personally, I think the motel is an even better choice in the colder months, as the wood furnishings remind me of being in an off-grid cabin, while the diner serves up a menu of delicious comfort food (think mega milkshakes and warm banana bread).
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What to do in Oxford
Franchise fan or not, I’ll always recommend the Harry Potter walking tour.
Firstly, because it provides you with a wonderful overview of the University of Oxford, detailing its unique and beautiful history through a tour of the assembly halls, chapels and accommodation sites, while simultaneously sprinkling in fascinating anecdotes about JK Rowlings’ inspiration for the books. Secondly, the tour will take you to Blackwell’s Bookshop on Broad Street, aka my happy place.
One of the largest bookshops in the world, Blackwell’s is home to The Norrington Room, which houses more than three miles of bookshelves alone. Students and locals alike frequent Blackwell’s to read, browse the shelves or simply sit on one of the comfy sofas and bask in the literary hush.
If you aren’t a fan of guided tours, you can still make your own way around the many beautiful university buildings.
While a beautiful sight year-round, winter presents the perfect opportunity to step into the halls of Christ Church. As the largest and perhaps most famous of the Oxford colleges, an impressive 13 British prime ministers, as well as Lewis Carroll, John Locke and WH Auden, studied here.
New College is perhaps my favourite of all the institutions at Oxford, as the gothic architecture is so breath-taking. The idyllic grounds have been used as the setting for countless films, from Harry Potter to Mamma Mia, and — if you’re lucky — you’ll hear the keys of the organ bellow out from the chapel as you make your way around.
Besides the colleges, Oxford is home to a wealth of museums and galleries, but it’s the Ashmolean that holds a special place in my heart. Escape the cold and wander through the world-famous collections of both art and archaeology, travelling through time from culture to culture as you trace the lives of the Egyptians through to the Ancient Greeks.
I always recommend not packing too much into your schedule on a weekend break, as it’s often better to simply stroll the streets and see what you happen upon. In Oxford, there are countless cafes, magic shops and — if you fancy — a decadent spa to indulge in for an hour or two.
The best spa in Oxford
Those looking for some relaxation time will do no better than The Store. Nestled in the heart of Oxford’s bustling centre, it provides a wonderful respite from the students and tourists — you’ll notice how all noise seems to fade behind the glass doors as soon as you step in.
I’ve stopped by The Store a few times on my visits to Oxford — more so for lunches and dinners — but recently ventured to its lower ground floor to sample the spa.
Here, you’ll be cocooned in dark-panelled walls, given a plush robe and slippers and guided to the relaxation area, which is also home to a steam room, sauna and gym. It’s by no means extensive — the space is quite compact — but it makes for a great afternoon date on a cold wintery day.
The treatments on offer are in partnership with Oskia and Verden, and I couldn’t help but indulge in a back massage during my time there, which I wholeheartedly recommend. However, if you aren’t keen on a treatment, the spa still delivers a stunningly soothing experience, and afterwards, you head upstairs to the Treadwell Restaurant for lunch whenever you’re ready.
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Where to eat in Oxford
As mentioned, Treadwell Restaurant in The Store is a great shout for lunch or dinner — it has an upmarket atmosphere with an eclectic menu that spans a range of dishes — from carbonara to curry. I’ve opted for the tuna steak on multiple occasions and it’s never disappointed.
Quod Restaurant & Bar is another fantastic choice with a broad menu of classic dishes — the Cesear salad is humongous and delicious. It also boasts a wonderful Sunday lunch menu full of warming dishes, as well as a Christmas menu if you’re planning to visit during the festive season. Ideally located on the High Street, the restaurant peers out onto St Mary’s Church — which makes for a picturesque backdrop, especially when it’s snowing. If you fancy it, I’ve heard the afternoon tea is divine, although I’m yet to sample it myself.
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I can’t conclude my list of recommendations without mentioning KIBOU, a Japanese-inspired restaurant that I absolutely adore.
It has six sites across the UK, but the Oxford restaurant is so intricately designed that it feels as though you’ve stumbled upon a little portal to Tokyo. Japanese floral installations, colourful murals and digital animations adorn the walls, and it’s a much more contemporary option compared to the other restaurants I’ve mentioned.
The menu is huge and spans hot dishes, sushi, salads, ramen, bao buns and Wagyu beef — which the waiter described as “the best Wagyu you’ll ever have in your lives”. I can’t comment on whether it lives up to the hype as I’m a pescatarian, but he looked like a trustworthy man.
What I did try, however, was the miso marinated salmon, sesame prawn toast bao and tuna uramaki, among a plethora of other delicious dishes. Whether you’re a sushi fan or not, it’s sure to be a highlight of your time in Oxford and will perhaps make a nice change from the more traditional English fare that’s so prevalent in the city.
Top tip:
If you’re looking for a cosy cafe to escape the cold, head to Love Coffee Co on the High Street and sample it’s decadent hot chocolate and Greek pastries or opt for its savoury sandwiches and snacks.
Feature image: Pexels
