PDRN skincare is the at-home equivalent of the popular salmon sperm facial (aka polynucleotide treatments) — but according to Dr Christine Hall and L360 editor and aesthetician Mattie Lacey-Davidson, the benefits are not the same.
The first video I saw on social media about PDRN – a type of polynucleotide, which is usually derived from fish sperm but now comes with plant-based alternatives – featured an influencer telling her 100k followers that they need it in their skincare routine because it “stimulates fibroblasts, which are the cells responsible for producing collagen and elastin, so it’s amazing for fine lines and wrinkles”.
This is true when it’s used in injectables or combined with microneedling to reach the dermis, but there’s currently no evidence that these benefits apply to topical skincare products. Unfortunately, with PDRN skincare a hot topic right now, social media is abuzz with false claims.
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What is PDRN?
A type of polynucleotide — it’s a DNA fragment taken from trout or salmon sperm — PDRN (short for ‘polydeoxyribonucleotide’) happens to be highly compatible with human skin, triggering a host of skincare benefits.
In skincare clinics, polynucleotides can be injected or microneedled into the skin, which has been shown to support cell renewal, increase collagen and elastin, increase hydration, speed up wound healing and help to rejuvenate the skin. When applied topically with PDRN skincare products, however, the benefits are reduced.
“PDRN is a large molecule — too large, in fact, to penetrate the skin barrier,” explains GP and aesthetic physician Dr Christine Hall. “Formulation, molecular weight, and delivery system are crucial factors in whether it works topically — but even then, it’s too big.”
As a result, PDRN cannot reach the dermis to trigger an increase in collagen or elastin.
“The effects of topical PDRN will always be more surface-level compared to injectable PDRN, which delivers the ingredient directly into the dermis,” explains Dr Hall, before adding: “But that’s true for most skincare ingredients — and it doesn’t mean topical PDRN doesn’t have value.”
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So, what can PDRN in skincare do?
The main effects you’ll see from using PDRN products is skin will be hydrated and soothed — the latter likely due to its anti-inflammatory and emerging wound healing benefits.
So, if you’ve got sensitive skin, a compromised skin barrier or just want to boost your hydration (which the majority of us need to do), then it’s a good and usually inexpensive addition to your routine.
“While the research on topical PDRN is still emerging, I’ve seen real benefits — both personally and in my patients,” says Dr Hall. “Skin appears calmer, more hydrated, and visibly restored — especially in compromised or post-procedure skin. I know from personal experience, that when skin is compromised it’s healed and restored much more quickly when PDRN products are used.”
It’s worth noting that the most popular PDRN serums on the market today have additional ingredients that support the benefits claimed. For example, Medicube’s PDRN Pink Peptide Serum claims to ‘address uneven skin tone and enhance skin elasticity’ — but it may well be the niacinamide addressing skin tone and the three peptides it contains boosting elastin, as these are proven benefits.
Feature image credit: Unsplash
