Gel nails are the holy grail of manicures: glossy, chip-resistant and built to last. But one key ingredient is raising red flags — and has been banned in the EU.
Whether you’re a bi-weekly devotee or a special-occasion-only kind of person, chances are you’ve been drawn to gel manicures for their glossy shine and serious longevity.
One trip to the salon (averaging around £40) can leave you chip-free for up to three weeks, thanks in part to a powerful ingredient that helps set the polish under UV light.
But, according to the latest findings, that long-lasting finish may come at a potential risk. A chemical called trimethylbenzoyl diphenylphosphine oxide (or TPO), used in many gel formulas, is being phased out in Europe due to concerns over its toxicity. And the UK could be next.
We spoke to experts to find out exactly what this means for you and your nails.
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What Is TPO and why is it used in gel polish?
TPO is a photoinitiator — a chemical that enables gel polish to harden when exposed to UV or LED light.
“It’s the reason gel polish sets so firmly and lasts for weeks without chipping,” says Karina Dubinina, founder of Backstage Beauty Salon. “Without TPO or a similar ingredient, the polish wouldn’t cure properly.”
While it’s been used in salons for years, recent scientific reviews prompted the European Union to classify TPO as a category 1B substance, meaning it may be carcinogenic, mutagenic, or toxic to reproduction — based on high-dose studies.
Importantly, the actual concentration of TPO in gel polish is very low, and it’s only applied to the nail plate, which naturally limits absorption. But the concern lies in long-term, cumulative exposure — especially with regular, repeated use.
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Will TPO be banned in the UK?
Most likely, but not for a while.
The EU ban on TPO in cosmetic products came into effect on 1 September 2025, giving brands and salons time to adapt. While the UK sets its own cosmetic regulations post-Brexit, experts expect an equivalent UK ban to follow in 2026 or 2027.
“Many UK brands are already working ahead of this timeline,” says Karina. “We’re seeing a shift toward TPO-free formulas to meet both the upcoming legal requirements and consumer demand for safer products.”
Should you stop getting gel manicures?
While you don’t need to necessarily stop getting gel manis altogether, it’s worth being selective.
According to consultant dermatologist at London’s Cadogan Clinic, Dr Tim Churchill, occasional gel manicures are generally safe. However, frequent use can bring added risks, beyond just TPO.
“The main concerns include nail thinning, irritation, allergic reactions and, most notably, exposure to UVA light during the curing process,” says Dr Tim. “UVA is linked to skin ageing and, in the long term, may increase the risk of skin cancer.”
To protect your hands and nails, consider:
- wearing UV-protective gloves with open fingertips during curing
- using only TPO-free gel products
- allowing nails time to recover between manicures
- avoiding at-home removal, which can damage the natural nail
What are some TPO-free gel brands?
The industry is already shifting, and a growing number of polish brands have either removed TPO or are currently reformulating to comply with the upcoming EU ban.
Here are a few TPO-free gel brands to ask about:
- Manucurist: its Green Flash line is plant-based and free of TPO.
- Aprés: the brand is known for high-performance, TPO-free gel extensions
- OPI: its Intelli-Gel system contains zero TPO.
- The GelBottle: EU formulations are already TPO-free, with UK and US markets following suit.
What are safer manicure alternatives?
Whether you’re taking a break from gels or just looking to switch things up, there are plenty of lower-risk manicure options that don’t require curing lamps or controversial ingredients.
Japanese manicure
This nourishing treatment uses natural ingredients such as beeswax, keratin, bamboo and pearl powder to strengthen and polish the nail for a clean, healthy shine.
Longwear polish
A lot of traditional nail polish brands offer enhanced staying power of up to 10 days, without the need for curing.
LED polish
This type is cured using LED rather than UV lamps. Though it still emits some UV, exposure is typically shorter and milder.
BIAB (Builder in a Bottle)
A strengthening overlay that can help reinforce thin or brittle nails. Some brands now offer TPO-free BIAB formulas.
Dip powder
A powder-based system offering salon-level longevity without UV light. However, check for similar chemical ingredients in the formula.
Nail wraps and press-ons
Damage-free, fast and chemical-light. These are ideal for quick, stylish nails without the commitment or exposure.
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You don’t need to ditch gel polish completely, but it’s smart to understand what’s in your manicure and make choices that support your long-term nail and skin health.
“We’re seeing more clients shift toward natural, restorative treatments or requesting TPO-free brands,” says Karina. “There’s a growing awareness around ingredient safety, and the industry is evolving to meet those expectations.”
Whether you’re staying loyal to gels or ready to explore the latest clean beauty trends, your next manicure can still be beautiful, without the hidden health risks.
Feature image: Canva
