What are exosomes and do you need them in your skincare routine?

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From anti-ageing to hair loss, this is exactly what exosomes do and the best products to buy, from The Inkey List’s Exosome Hydro-Glow Complex to Medicube’s One Day Exosome Shot Pore Ampoule.

Exosomes hit the skincare and aesthetics industry with a bang in 2024 and the popularity of these nanoparticles is only growing. Just last month, The Inkey List launched its Exosome Hydro-Glow Complex (a bargain at just £20), which has seen positive reviews across social media from influencers and industry experts alike.

The tiny wonders are also hitting clinics across the UK as specialists rave about their anti-ageing benefits for skin and hair when combined with microneedling (which allows them to get deep into the skin or hair follicle to reverse signs of ageing and hair loss).

@dr_memee I am so happy that there are so many exosome products entering the skincare market. I am absolutely over the moon that regenerative aesthetics is coming to the forefront. This is my honest unbiased unsponsored review of one of the most affordable exosome serums on the market. ##theinkeylist##exosomehydroglowcomplex##exosomes##regenerativeaesthetics @@The INKEY List ♬ original sound – DrMemee 🎀

What are exosomes?

First used in the medical field to treat a range of health conditions, exosomes can help repair and regenerate tissue — including skin and hair follicles.

“Exosomes are nanoparticles that are naturally released from cells, especially stem cells,” explains surgeon Dr Sof Rimouche. “They carry genetic information, proteins and multiple growth factors.”

Historically, exosomes were extracted from animals and humans, but, today, plant-based exosomes are also an option.

“Many leading aesthetic practitioners believe plant-based exosomes work wonders for their reliability in anti-inflammatory, wound-healing and hydration applications,” says Dr Aamer Khan of the Harley Street Skin Clinic.

Exosomes have a host of benefits for skin across ageing, texture and sensitivity. (Picture: Pexels)

Exosomes for skin

Applied via facials or at-home skincare, exosomes may boost collagen production and radiance, hydrate and smooth skin, calm redness and sensitivity, even skin tone, and protect and repair skin from environmental damage.

“They transfer proteins, lipids and nucleic acids, working as messengers in cell-to-cell communication,” Dr Khan explains.

“This transfer influences the physiology of the recipient cell, with growth factors and proteins boosting collagen production for that extra pop in skin appearance and texture.

“Think of it this way: exosomes act as signalling molecules, kick-starting cellular activity, speeding up collagen and elastin production, and contributing to skin repair.”

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Best exosome skincare products

The Inkey List’s Exosome Hydro-Glow Complex (£20) claims to boost collagen, provide antioxidant support, improve hydration and leave skin ‘glowing and smooth’. It’s formulated with a peptide to promote skin cell renewal, with prickly pair extract to gently exfoliate, too.

Formulated to target large pores, Medicube’s One Day Exosome Shot (£21.95) contains small needle-like particles called ‘spicules’ which cause minor trauma to the skin (often referred to as ‘liquid microneedling’) to aid penetration, as well as a blend of chemical exfoliators (AHAs, BHA and PHA) to exfoliate the skin. It promises significant reduction in just one use, while also reducing excess oil. However, it also promises to reduce ‘pore density’ and it’s worth noting nothing nothing can reduce the number of pores in your skin.

Another one from Medicube is the Exosome Cica Ampoule (£31.60). Much like the Exosome Shot, it makes no anti-ageing claims — it promises to increase hydration and improve skin texture.

Dr Barbara Sturm’s The Exoso-Metic Face Serum (£430) claims to support the skin’s rejuvenation: firming, smoothing, and reducing signs of ageing such as lines and pigmentation. The Exoso-Metic Eye Serum (£350) promises intensive skin renewal — reducing wrinkles around the eyes – with antioxidant benefits.

Dr Barbara Sturm’s The Exoso-Metic Face Serum is quite an investment.

Providers of aesthetic clinical technology (particularly microcurrent devices), CACI now has a range of skincare including the Exosome Glow Serum (£45). Promising to brighten skin, even skin tone and reduce hyperpigmentation, it uses a plant-based exosome delivery system to enhance the absorption of other ingredients, such as arbutin, niacinamide and vitamin C which all help to brighten and even skin.

Arkana’s The EXO Power Serum (£117) claims to stimulate cell renewal with ongoing, long-term use, enhancing skin firmness and elasticity. There are also five growth factors, which can stimulate collagen production for firmer skin, and hyaluronic acid to hydrate and plump the skin.

One of the only at-home exosome hair care products on the market, CALECIM’s Advanced Hair System (£295) provides six weeks’ worth of product ampules to be used alongside a derma stamp (with tiny needles to aid absorption) promising to increase hair follicle cell growth by 24%, reduce follicle inflammation (a leading cause of hair loss) by 30% and increase hair density in a variety of ways (shaft thickness, follicle number, amount of hairs, etc. It contains over 3,000 proteins, including growth factors, cytokines and exosomes that signal cells to regenerate.

Angela Caglia’s Cell Forté Serum (£311) contains an anti-ageing cocktail of exosomes, peptides, growth factors, hyaluronic acid and snow mushrooms. These promise to reduce wrinkles, increase hydration, brighten skin, smooth texture and improve uneven skin tone in four weeks.

Exosomes can slow ageing skin and hair loss. (Picture: freepik)

Exosomes for hair

Another emerging use for these true all-rounders is hair regrowth. “They enhance the activity of hair follicle cells, improving blood circulation in the scalp, augmenting the communication between cells and reducing inflammation,” Dr Rimouche explains.

“Treatments involve applying the exosomes topically or injecting them into the scalp. There, they can stimulate dormant hair follicles, increase hair density and, potentially, reverse thinning.”