Medieval architecture, hillside wineries and delicious local tapas: here’s how to have the perfect festive weekend away in Spain’s renowned wine region.
For many, a winter weekend away means a quiet cottage getaway or a bustling city shopping spree. But to truly embrace the festive spirit, consider visiting somewhere that celebrates the season’s greatest joys: wine and food.
And where could be better for this than La Rioja, Spain’s renowned wine region? A stay in the capital, Logroño, will put you right in the heart of the action. Flanked by the Sierra de Cantabria and Sierra de la Demanda mountains, Logroño is a place of medieval streets and picturesque plazas. A stay here promises enchanting architecture, warming wine and delicious local cuisine.
Head for the hills to explore La Rioja’s wineries
A short drive or taxi ride from Logroño, you’ll find endless rows of dense vines lining a path leading to Bodegas Campo Viejo, a modern, airy winery with stunning mountain views and 45,000sq metres of underground production space.
According to Ignacio Lopez, chief winemaker at Campo Viejo, “What makes La Rioja special is the diversity of its soils, creating a wide range of aromas, flavours and expressions in its wines.”
You can discover how the winemakers harness these unique characteristics on a tour, which culminates in the formidable barrel room — a vast, dark space filled with 70,000 oak barrels that feels more like an art gallery than a winery. Along the way, be sure to sample a variety of wines, some of which aren’t available in the UK, accompanied by rich Rioja sausage.
Make the most of your visit with a creative workshop, such as bottle painting. Here, you can design and paint your own wine bottle — a challenge, perhaps, after a full day of wine tasting, but worth it for the opportunity to gift someone a hand-painted keepsake. campoviejo.com
La Rioja is home to more than just one winery, of course. A 20-25-minute taxi ride from Logroño, in the foothills of the Sierra de Cantabria, you’ll find another standout: Bodegas Ysios. Designed by avant-garde architect Santiago Calatrava, the building’s meandering shape and undulating metallic roof make the mountain terrain behind seem utterly unreal. Learn how the unique combination of climate, soils and century-old vines come together to produce the region’s distinctive expressions. And, afterwards, sample two wines, paired with a traditional Iberian aperitif. bodegasysios.com
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Hit the tapas trail
No visit to Logroño is complete without a tapas tour. Begin with a refreshing tomato salad at Soldado de Tudelilla, then head to Bar Soriano for the grilled mushroom and prawn skewers. Next, visit Casa Víctor for a hearty beef entrecôte before making your way to La Casita for a prawn and octopus skewer and on to La Tabola for an indulgent rib brioche. Finish with an ice cream, which is best enjoyed on the slow amble back to your hotel.
Get into the festive spirit
With the city illuminated by glittering lights, Christmas is the perfect time to take in Logroño’s historic architecture, from the imposing Concathedral of Santa María de la Redonda to the intricate stone towers of the Church of San Bartolomé.
Stroll along cobbled streets to the Town Hall Square, where a quaint nativity scene brings the spirit of Christmas to life. Continue on to catch a glimpse of the luminous ball in the Paseo de las Cien Tiendas, before finishing at Plaza del Mercado to admire the huge Christmas tree — a twinkling reminder of the magic of the season.
Where to stay
Eurostars Marqués de Vallejo, in Logroño’s old town, is a great base from which to explore the city, with comfortable and spacious rooms. A three-night stay for two people starts from £167. eurostarshotels.com
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Matches made in heaven
Perfect your holiday spread with expert pairings from Ignacio Lopez, designed to bring out the best flavours in both the wine and food.
- Campo Viejo Gran Reserva
This complex wine, aged for a minimum of five years in both oak barrels and the bottle, offers a depth of flavours that complements rich, aged cheeses. Try it with aged English cheddar, French comté or Italian Parmigiano Reggiano. The wine’s smooth tannins and nuanced aromas of dark fruit and spice will enhance the sharpness and umami of these cheeses. - Campo Viejo Reserva
With its seductive notes of vanilla and sweet spice, Campo Viejo Reserva pairs well with the creamy, nutty flavours of Spanish manchego or Nordic aged gouda. These cheeses bring out the wine’s full-bodied richness, while the wine’s spice notes amplify the cheeses’ subtle complexity. - Campo Viejo Tempranillo
For a festive touch, the vibrant flavours of Campo Viejo Tempranillo, with its hints of violet, vanilla and black plum, make it the ideal partner for pigs in blankets and cranberry sauce. The wine’s fruit-forward profile and smooth finish perfectly complement the savoury richness of the sausages and the tangy sweetness of the cranberry sauce.
