Situated far away from the crowds of Palma, Valldemossa awaits those looking for a dreamy and serene wellness break in the mountains.
“When the King discovered that Valldemossa could help to soothe his son’s illness, he built a palace just for him.”
I’m standing on the terrace of Hotel Valldemossa, a 200-year-old building encompassed by verdant greenery. To my right, rows of olive trees — a symbol of longevity — sway in the breeze, and the hotel manager, Bianca, tells me how significant this facet of nature is to the people of the village.
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“These trees can live for hundreds of years, and the one at our entrance has been there for over 700,” she explains. “They’re a symbol of resilience and they represent what our hotel stands for.”
It took a series of careful manoeuvres by our driver along winding roads to reach Hotel Valldemossa, and despite the short drive from Palma, it felt as though we had travelled a world away from the Majorca that I knew. There are just 12 rooms here, and the impact of that can be felt almost immediately — it was as though we were entering a sanctuary reserved only for us. And, as Bianca informs me, this is exactly what awaited King Jaime II’s son in 1309.
“The king realised that the climate here helped to soothe his son’s breathing,” she explains. “It was a destination for recovery, even then.”
Brits have been flooding to Majorca for their sunny sojourns for decades, and for good reason. After a short flight, at just a little over two hours, you can be sitting on a beach in Palma, cocktail in hand, followed by an evening strolling through the pretty tree-lined street of Passeig del Born, otherwise known as the ‘Golden Mile’.
But set away from the throngs of tourists and crowded beaches, a small village sits quietly amid the rolling Tramuntana mountains — and it’s the perfect spot for those looking to see a lesser-known side of this holiday hotspot.
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Where to stay in Valldemossa
After the regal staircase that leads to the reception, everything about Hotel Valldemossa feels intimate and serene. Wherever you look, nature surrounds.
The terracotta villas have been purposely dotted around the hotel to prioritise guest privacy. Each room comes with its own verandah, ideal for soaking up the rays or simply sitting and listening to your surroundings.
While there are many features of the room worth mentioning, it was the vast window positioned just beside the deep, cream tub that felt most calm. As I gaze out, scents of the lavender and pine body oils provided by the hotel fill the room, created to mirror the aromas of the environment.
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Everything here has been crafted with a singular purpose: for guests to immerse themselves in nature. From the outdoor gym that allows you to gaze out at the tree-covered mountainside to the regular morning yoga sessions hosted in a secluded garden spot, there’s no shortage of ways to indulge in the restorative abilities of the world outside.
What to do in Valldemossa
Nestled within the grounds of Hotel Valldemossa, The Sanctuary is a hidden alcove for those seeking an extra dose of wellness. At its helm is Amor, who’s renowned for her therapies and massages, and I couldn’t complete my weekend here without trying her electric cupping therapy. Surprisingly soothing, the treatment leaves me feeling lighter, and the knots in my shoulders that previously felt like a constant burden suddenly dissipate beneath my skin.
I also pay a visit to the indoor pool and sauna, which guests can book for private sessions. Lying on the lounger — with the Majorcan mountains before me — I feel as though I’ve happened upon an ancient wellness retreat, and only I, and the four donkeys that meander outside, know of its existence.
It would be remiss to not experience the hotel’s own restaurant, De Tokio a Lima, which boasts an eclectic combination of Japanese, Peruvian and Mediterranean cuisine. After perfectly styled helpings of seabass, shrimp fritters, octopus and lobster tacos, the waitress urges me to try the creamy Sóller lemon cake, but I’ve eaten so much I fear my stomach couldn’t take another mouthful.
“Don’t worry,” she says. “You can try it at breakfast, too.”
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Valldemossa is small, but I could easily spend hours strolling along the cobbled walkways, dipping in and out of the clothes shops and sampling flavours of all the colourful ice creams on display. There’s a certain simplicity to this mountain village that adds to its rareness, and although there are tourists around, I still feel as though I’ve found somewhere relatively untouched by the motions of time.
There’s a famous quote about Valldemossa made by French novelist George Sand after her visit here in 1838: ‘All that a poet or painter might dream of, nature has created here.’ As I stand gazing at the endlessly green rolling valley, it feels surreal to think that — despite the 187 years between now and then — not much has changed since those words were written.
