Stunning coastlines, boat trips and Michelin-starred restaurants: why Jersey should be your next spot for a wellness break.
Salt air whipped against my face as I listened to the seagulls overhead, their morning calls streaming out over the waves. Ahead, a tiny patch of land lay scattered with abandoned holiday homes, fishermen’s huts and seashells. An eery silence fell over our boat, which bobbed gently with the current, and there was nothing to do except sit and contemplate ourselves.
Today, the Écréhous islands have no permanent inhabitants and I was struck by how completely alone we were — a feeling both freeing and terrifying. I felt as though I’d disappeared.
To my left, the faint outline of Normandy glistened in the distance, and at a mere eight miles away, felt close enough to touch. To my right, I looked back on ‘Honeymoon Island’, more formerly known as Jersey, where I’ve been staying for the past few days.
“Honeymoon island?” I asked Marie, as she drove us away from the airport on Thursday, when we first arrived here. I felt as though I couldn’t have been in the air for more than 10 minutes, but a one-hour flight will have that affect.
Jersey is the most southerly of the British Isles, and I’m here for a long weekend break. At only 85 miles from mainland Britain, my initial expectation was that the island wouldn’t differ much from Dorset or perhaps Bournemouth — flashes of the quintessential British seaside with rare bouts of sunshine filled my mind as the plane made its descent.
But as we coasted through the island, views of a glittering ocean accompanied by white sand and sea-facing restaurants came into focus, and I quickly realised that my expectations couldn’t have been more wrong.
“After the end of the Second World War, Jersey was like the Caribbean for Britons,” explained Marie, a warm smile on her face as if recollecting a cherished memory. “Couples who had just got married used to come here for their honeymoons, as there’s such huge appeal — quick flight, warm weather, beautiful island!”
She added that there was also the post-war tax provision that allowed newlyweds to file a joint return that amounted to around £200, which significantly added to the allure.
“But really, it’s the French flair to Jersey that makes it so special,” Marie continued.
And there’s a distinctly French feel to the island as we journeyed through its capital, St Helier, passing by Route de La Trinite and Mont Les Vaux — distinctly French road names that remind visitors Jersey was a part of the Duchy of Normandy from the 11th to the 13th century.
Greenery and quaint boutiques frame the roads as we approached the hotel, and as I searched for my sun cream and shades, I certainly felt more like I was in Northern France than the most southerly outreach of the UK.
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Where to stay in Jersey
The Club Hotel & Spa sits right in the heart of St Helier, and I’m welcomed by a glass of champagne and a tour of the outside area — a decadent swimming pool framed by greenery and surrounded by an array of lounge chairs.
On the way to our room, we passed by a group of tourists checking out, all agreeing at how surprised they were at the island. “I just can’t get over the beaches,” said one of them. The room — complete with a large double bed, sofa and vanity — was spacious and comfortable, exactly what I needed after my long and tiresome one-hour flight.
With a view overlooking the pool, luxurious toiletries, chocolates placed beside the bed and a soft robe awaiting me, it was clear that the hotel championed rest and wellness — as well as indulgence.
The spa stood as a stark contrast to the rest of the hotel’s bright and warm interior. Here, the walls were dark, the space lit only by the expansive indoor saltwater pool.
Its design echoed its ethos, which is for guests to completely disconnect from regular programming while visiting. Outside the five treatment rooms (including one specifically for couples), the spa boasts a salt cabin, herbal steam room and experience shower. After my traipse through all three of those areas (with a particularly long stay in the salt cabin, which I’ve been told is fantastic for improved breathing and absorbing minerals) I headed over to the relaxation sanctuary.
It seems unnecessary to say it, given its name, but leaving this room feeling anything other than relaxed is an impossible feat. With a soft reclining bed, a bowl of fruit, a selection of herbal teas and my book of choice (Still Life, by Sarah Winman), I was in pure, unadulterated bliss.
Of course, the spa also has a range of treatments available for guests to book, from Indian head massages to full-body scrubs, and there’s even a Rasul mud experience designed to detoxify and soothe your skin — something that every city-dweller frequently confronted by polluted streets will be sure to benefit from.
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Wellness experiences in Jersey
Just a 10-minute walk from the hotel sits Havre Des Pas, a beautiful beach with its own natural bathing pool. Despite only being a stone’s-throw away from England, Jersey’s beaches stand miles apart from the seaside experiences that the mainland has to offer (with no disrespect to the English coast).
With what seems to be endless white sand, idyllic ocean views and a clear sky, it became clear why so many newlyweds from the UK opt for the shores of Jersey rather than heading further afield. And as I sat gazing out at the blue, I realised just how underrated this island truly is.
The only downside of an afternoon spent on this dreamy beach were the overly confident seagulls that stole my lunch — a feature of the British seaside that Jersey does uphold. That, and the fact the temperature of the water was much of the same as you’d get in Dorset or Southend: freezing. But I ventured in regardless and deemed it as being a part of the wellness experience. The cold-water treatment felt as good for my body as the sun did for my soul.
Our second day on the island called for a return to the ocean, this time via kayak.
“It’s not as easy as it looks,” warns Derek, the friendly guide tasked with taking me out onto Jersey’s coastline. “You need to have decent upper body strength to maintain the upright posture, or you’re likely to topple in.”
After pulling on my wetsuit and light waterproof jacket, we set off for a morning of paddling and encounters with a variety of wildlife, particularly oystercatchers. “You have to try some Jersey oysters and scallops while you’re here,” said Derek. “Scallops are hand-dived in Jersey rather than dredged, which means that the seabed remains relatively undisturbed.”
As I journeyed back to shore (he was right, kayaking isn’t as easy as it looks) after covering over two miles, tired and achy, Derek pointed out the heaps of bladderwrack (a form of seaweed) that lay across the sand, noting that if you pop one of the small bulbs, an aloe-vera like liquid appears that’s has been used for centuries as a natural remedy, as well as for skincare.
As I doused myself in as much of the gel as possible, I realised how much wellness here differs from that of London. It’s not about clinics and treatments but immersing yourself in all the nature that the island has to offer. To the locals, walking, kayaking, paddleboarding and boating are the greatest forms of selfcare.
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Food and drink in Jersey
With a Michelin-starred restaurant located in The Club Hotel itself, it would be remiss to not experience the best fine dining that Jersey has to offer. After all, what good is wellness without a moment of hard-earned indulgence?
Bohemia Restaurant is decadent yet understated, with white tablecloths and a subdued lighting scheme that had a particularly Parisian feel. We selected the six-course tasting menu, where each meal was meticulously paired to the unique flavours of the individual dishes by the sommelier.
The experience was truly memorable, and even wine novices will appreciate the intricate work that goes into paring the ingredients of a meal with the flavours of a bottle. We even got to sample the hand-dived scallops that Derek had recommended, and they were softest, most flavoursome that I’d ever had.
Before leaving Jersey, I felt it was important to try out the cuisine of one of the lively seaside restaurants that were seemingly overflowing with guests every night. We opted for De L’Etang Greek Taverna, and were met with a small, bustling space with every table full. After a delicious helping of octopus, chicken souvlakia, Greek salad and a slice of the homemade baklava that looked too good to resist, the owners — Rebecca and Yiannis — came out to greet us, informing us of how much time and effort goes into the cuisine in Jersey.
“Seafood is obviously the speciality, and the freshness of our food is so important. We’ll send anything back to the supplier that we weren’t 100% happy with,” said Rebecca. When asked why they chose to establish a restaurant here, the couple noted the simplistic way of life in Jersey.
“We’ve also got a gorgeous beach on our doorstep and regular warm weather. If we wanted to, we could get to the mainland in no time.”
Despite only being a short distance from London, this small island felt worlds away from life in the city. During my four days here, trains, laptops and gyms were swapped for outdoor adventures, wholesome food and coastal walks — all accompanied by sunshine and blue skies.
The locals’ passion for Jersey’s natural surroundings was infectious, and as I prepared for my journey home, I found my former view of wellness to be altered. While kayaking a few days ago, Derek said that there’s no better way to switch off and reset than out in the ocean, just you and your paddle, and I think that sums up what wellness means here. No frivolities or complex technology. No clinics or calm-inducing pods. Just you and your paddle.
